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Kingsolver makes the argument that the process of cooking good food is worth the time involved for health as well as spiritual reasons. She acknowledges the societal shift that has made everyone busier and reduced the amount of free time available to devote to cooking. As she says: “I have no argument with convenience, on principle” (125). She also acknowledges that there are people who truly have neither the time nor the resources to cook. And that “most U.S. citizens don’t have room in their lives to grow food or even see it growing” (126).
However, she argues that most other people, including those with demanding jobs, can make time to cook. She supports the idea that “working people’s cooking, of course, will develop an efficiency ethic” but that home cooked meals are still infinitely healthier and cheaper per serving than so-called “fast-food” (128).
This idea that saving time by not cooking doesn’t save anything in the long run—and can-do serious damage by shortening lifespans—plays out in the second half of the chapter. Here, Kingsolver describes her experience learning to make her own cheese. For many, this might seem time-consuming with little reward, but the author argues for the benefits of taking the time to learn to make cheese, especially in a household with lactose intolerants.
The chapter ends with Camille’s essay “Growing Up in the Kitchen,” where she explains that “cooking in our family helped me cultivate certain food habits that I later found out are a little unusual for my generation” like always needing to eat sitting down (142). She also faced difficulties when she moved out and good, homecooked food was not readily available. And she describes how important family dinner was to her growing up, as it was dedicated time for the family to catch up and chat.
Kingsolver describes the experience of finding The Farmers Diner when the family was on their trip north. The restaurant serves food made only from ingredients sourced from farms within an hour’s drive. The owner, Tom Murphy, is a farmer who had struggled to find a market for his products, and so had opened the diner as a result. It serves similar food to any other diner, but “his unusual take on the ordinary has recently made the place world-famous, at least among those paying attention to food culture” (151).
Tom views the farming industry as “people trying to keep work and homes together, versus conglomerates that scoop up a customer’s money and move it out of town to a corporate bank account” (151-52). It is a real-world example of the locavore lifestyle going beyond the farm.
This chapter includes an essay from Hopp entitled “Speaking Up,” which encourages readers to ask their stores to stock local food and pressure local policymakers to encourage local eating.
Still on their trip, the family travels further north to Canada, where they spend some time trying to track down local food to eat. They pass several restaurants advertising American food, which amuses them as “our national cuisine seems to be food without obvious biological origins, chosen for the color and shape of the sign out front” (155). They visit various markets and find produce from California, showing that the issue of transporting food affects the world, not just America.
They then go to visit with their friends, Elsie and David, in Ohio. They farm corn, while their daughter and her husband, Emily and Hersh, raise dairy cows. They spend time watching how these family farmers operate; David has never used pesticides on his crops. He’s saddened by the way the conglomerate’s marketing has overtaken many farms. They pass an area where one field of corn is grown on land that had previously been farmed with modern methods while the other had only ever been farmed naturally and “the disparity between the two fields was almost comically dramatic
(163).
One of the reasons for their commitment to traditional farming, Kingsolver says, is that “David and Elsie were raised by farmers and are doing the same for another generation” (165). Another reason is that “David and Elsie are Amish,” who famously adopt only technology and new processes that are vital needs, which “is what keeps our community healthy” (168-69).
Kingsolver’s point in describing the farm in detail is that since “a self-sufficient farming community has survived here, it remains a possibility elsewhere” (166).
Hopp’s essay in this chapter, “Losing the Bug Arms Race,” explores the dangers of using pesticides to control big populations on farms. Insect communities will grow resistant to the poisons; the same is true of herbicides. Meanwhile, “organic agriculture, which allows insect predator populations to retain a healthy presence in our fields, breaks the cycle” caused by these chemicals (165).
Camille’s essay “Organically Yours,” ends the chapter. She describes the various health and nutritional benefits of organic produce, including higher levels of antioxidants (171).
Kingsolver begins this chapter by describing the hard work that goes into a garden in the middle of summer. She argues that the work of weeding, cultivating, and harvesting summer produce like tomatoes, zucchini, and squash is enriching. Most people long for the peace of gardening likely because “it is mixed up in our DNA. Agriculture is the oldest, most continuous livelihood in which humans have engaged” (178). Most people still have a desire to garden and will cultivate some produce, if possible.
This may be why, despite American complacence with industrialized food, “we’re not unaware that things have gone wrong with our food and the culture of its production” (179).
The chapter continues with Kingsolver’s description of the chickens and turkeys, which have grown into adults, and ends with the harvest of summer squash and zucchini, which soon take over the house. The family devises inventive ways to use the squash and to avoid neighbors giving them more, as everyone is in the same boat of plenty.
The chapter includes the essay “Home Grown” from Hopp, which describes how even people living in apartments in urban areas can participate in gardening, such as by joining a community garden.
The chapter ends with Camille’s essay “The Spirit of Summer,” which describes a typical summer Saturday in the Kingsolver house, much of which involves cooking and baking bread. It tastes all the better, according to Camille, because “we had a relationship with this food” (191).
In this section, Kingsolver combats the common argument against home cooking and local eating: that people don’t have time. She does cede that “most U.S. citizens don’t have room in their lives to grow food or even see it growing,” but argues that cooking at home—efficiently, granted—is not outside the reach of most people (126).
As part of her education theme, Kingsolver tells stories of local farmers, explaining how the current industry is “people trying to keep work and homes together, versus conglomerates that scoop up a customer’s money and move it out of town to a corporate bank account” (151-52). She also explains how the culture of pesticides is impacting the quality of food crops, to everyone’s detriment. It is up to the consumer to take a stand, to care, and to support local farmers for the good of everyone.
Kingsolver also explores the contradictory nature of American society, because “we’re not unaware that things have gone wrong with our food and the culture of its production” (179). However, the local food movement at the time of her writing was small, niche, hardly revolutionary. She understands that many people don’t know where to start—the essays from Hopp and Camille are to provide easy, actionable steps and suggestions for the everyday eater, which is to say: everyone.



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