60 pages • 2-hour read
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Content Warning: This section of the guide contains discussion of racism.
Gather initial thoughts and broad opinions about the book.
1. Which parts of Ann Lowe’s story—her talent and her existence as society’s best kept secret—had the most impact on you?
2. The novel’s nonlinear narrative structure begins with an elderly Ann and jumps back and forth in time. Did this approach help or detract from your understanding of her life? Why?
3. What similarities or differences did you notice between By Her Own Design and other historical novels about pioneering women artists you may have read, such as Tracy Chevalier’s Girl with a Pearl Earring or Joy McCullough’s Blood, Water, Paint?
Encourage readers to connect the book’s themes and characters with their personal experiences.
1. Ann describes sewing as “my way of seeing the world, of feeling the world” (98). What creative outlets or passions in your life compare to this feeling?
2. Who have been important mentors in your life, in the ways that Mama, Grandma, or Mrs. Lee were for Ann?
3. Which of Ann’s many challenges resonated most with you personally? Why?
4. When have you needed to adapt after a setback to continue pursuing something important to you, as Ann did when losing her eyesight?
5. Ann eventually decides to use her talents to serve Black women rather than focusing solely on wealthy white clients. Think of a time when you redirected your skills toward a community or cause. What motivated this decision?
Examine the book’s relevance to societal issues, historical events, or cultural themes.
1. Which historical event or period portrayed in the novel provided the most illuminating context for understanding Ann’s struggles and achievements?
2. Ann’s designs often remained unattributed, as clients preferred to hint about her rather than naming her directly. In what ways does this reflect broader issues of recognition for Black artists and creators, both historically and today?
3. What significance does Ann’s decision to focus on designing for Black women have within the broader context of representation and entrepreneurship in the fashion industry?
4. What does Ann’s relationships with Jacqueline Kennedy and other high-society clients reveal about the social boundaries of the era?
Dive into the book’s structure, characters, themes, and symbolism.
1. What purpose do the italicized “prayer-wishes” serve throughout the narrative? How do they reflect, predict, or comment on the plot and the characters?
2. What do the recurring patterns of names and naming in the novel suggest about identity and self-determination?
3. What do Ann’s cloth flowers symbolize in the novel? Does this meaning mirror or counter their function as practical design elements?
4. Mrs. Josephine Lee is a benefactor, but she also represents the power dynamics between wealthy white customers and Black artists. How does this character embody both roles?
5. Several characters, like Mama and Grandma, continue to influence Ann after their deaths. What role do these presences play in Ann’s development?
Encourage imaginative and creative connections to the book.
1. What elements, fabrics, colors, and special details would you include in a signature dress that represents your own life story?
2. If you were curating an exhibition celebrating Ann Lowe’s work, which three designs from the novel would you feature as centerpieces and why?
3. Imagine Ann Lowe were alive today with her talents and determination intact. What kind of fashion line might she create, and how would modern technology and social media affect her recognition as an artist?



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