70 pages • 2-hour read
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The majority of mountaineers climbing above 25,000 feet use bottled, compressed oxygen, accessed via a face mask and tubing connected to a gas cylinder. The slopes of Everest are littered with discarded oxygen canisters; Sherpas are now incentivized to bring them down from Everest to help to reduce pollution.
The human body is susceptible to a huge range of complications when exposed to high altitude. Two of the most dangerous of these are HAPE, or high-altitude pulmonary edema, where there is excess fluid in the lungs, and HACE, or high-altitude cerebral edema, where there is excess fluid in the brain. Both of these require that the victim be immediately transported to a lower altitude, as well as obtain immediate medical help.
Hypoxia is a state where inadequate oxygen is available. Symptoms can include disorientation, confusion, extreme fatigue, susceptibility to cold, and death.
Sherpa are an ethnic group who live in the Khumbu Valley region of Nepal. Early mountaineers enlisted the help of locals adept at physical activity at high altitudes to help them to climb and load-bear in their Everest attempts. These individuals are known as climbing Sherpas, but the term “Sherpa” is now commonly used to mean climbing Sherpa, rather than to denote someone of the ethnic group.
The Sirdar is the name given to the most senior climbing Sherpa in an expedition. They are usually responsible for climbing at the front of a group and for setting ropes and making decisions about mountain conditions.



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