Is a River Alive?

In Part 1, Robert Macfarlane embarks on a journey to the cloud-forests of northern Ecuador to explore fundamental questions about whether rivers and forests are alive. His expedition centers on Los Cedros, a threatened cloud-forest that became the focus of a groundbreaking legal case establishing rights of nature in constitutional law.

Macfarlane traveled with three companions, each of whom brought their distinct expertise to their mission. César Rodriguez-Garavito, a Colombian lawyer dedicated to social justice, spent years fighting for both indigenous rights and the rights of nature across the Trans-Amazonian region. Cosmo Sheldrake, a versatile musician and field recordist, sought to capture the acoustic landscape of the forest. Giuliana Furci, a mycologist specializing in Chilean fungi, hoped to locate previously undiscovered mushroom species that could strengthen legal protections for Los Cedros.

The group’s destination was a remote area of primary cloud-forest accessible only by foot or mule. Their journey began in Quito, where Macfarlane experienced altitude sickness, then proceeded through Ecuador’s mountainous terrain to reach the forest’s edge. The physical challenges of reaching Los Cedros—steep muddy trails, heavy equipment, and difficult terrain—underscored the forest’s remoteness and vulnerability.

The chapter provides historical context for understanding Los Cedros’s significance.