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Harrer and Aufschnaiter turned a corner and finally saw the golden rooftops of the Potala monastery in Lhasa, the place where the Dalai Lama lived in winters. They passed through one final village, as well as the monasteries Drebung and Nechung, and soon became (what they assumed to be) the first Europeans to reach Lhasa without a travel pass. Every sight was overwhelming, and the sense of accomplishment was incomparable.
Harrer and his friend were rejected on their first two attempts, but then arrived at a large house and stopped there. Servants came out and tried to turn them away, but the two men stayed in their place. A “richly clad” Tibetan man came out of the house and spoke in English to them, and they explained they were Germans seeking asylum. The man, named Thangme, gained permission for them to stay one night, which gave Harrer and Aufschnaiter a chance to truly reflect on all they had been through since escaping the camps 21 months prior. Harrer wondered about those still in the camps, and whether he could call himself free while they were not.
Harrer and his friend spent the next few days inside Thangme’s home, as dozens of visitors came to hear their story. They found out that they had never fooled the officials at all, and Lhasa had been warned of Germans approaching. They also befriended a minister’s son and his wife, who promised to take good care of them and supply whatever they needed.
With each passing day, they felt more at home. They were given new suits tailored to their size, and became close with Thangme’s whole family. Eight days after arriving in Lhasa, Harrer and Aufschnaiter were invited to the home of the Dalai Lama’s parents and were instructed to bring white scarves to offer them.
They met the Dalai Lama’s parents at their palace and were greeted warmly. They had tea and discovered that the Dalai Lama’s parents were living as peasants when their son was identified as the next incarnation. They found out from the Dalai Lama’s older brother, Lobsang Samten, that the people of Tibet refer to the Dalai Lama as “Gyalpo Rimpoche,” meaning “Precious King” (123). His family referred to him as “Kundün” (“Presence”). Two of the Dalai Lama’s brothers were also declared incarnations, creating a highly revered family.
After the meeting, Lobsang requested that Harrer tutor him in Western knowledge, and Harrer looked forward to the prospect.
Harrer and Aufschnaiter were given the right to move freely about Lhasa, and discovered it had a plethora of shops containing goods from around the world. Almost anything a person wanted could be found there. They later met the secretary of the British Legation, who invited them to his home, and the chief of the British Legation who both found the men to be harmless and greeted them fairly. It was suggested that they would soon go back to India, but that was not in their plans. Harrer and his friend were also given the chance to write letters home to their families.
Over the coming days, Harrer and Aufschnaiter met several high-ranking monks and cabinet ministers, and witnessed the coming of spring in Lhasa. They heard stories of Tibetan weather-makers, who were said to be able to control the weather. They moved from Thangme’s home to the home of Tsarong, a wealthy former politician and general who even had European furniture for his guests to use. Tsarong had many hobbies, books from all over the world, and a wide assortment of foods.
When the government insisted that Harrer and Aufschnaiter leave Tibet, they were able to buy time as Harrer developed sciatica and could not walk for several weeks. The Tibetan New Year festivities began in March, and the whole city was cleaned for the occasion. Harrer and his friend were invited to watch the procession on the 15th, which was also a full moon.
They saw sculptures of saints made from butter, the Dalai Lama himself, along with the other high-ranking monks of the region, and walked the area at nightfall as the crowds bowed in reverence. When the ceremony ended, the crowd erupted into chaos.
The New Year celebrations continued, and Harrer lamented the Tibetan persistence against using modern technology. Several people were killed when tree trunks which were hauled in and tied by hand (to make flagpoles) fell on them. Harrer points out that the Tibetan people relied on an English doctor in this moment, despite the monks’ reluctance. Meanwhile, Harrer and Aufschnaiter both found work, with Harrer designing a fountain for Tsarong’s garden and Aufschnaiter building an irrigation canal.
The celebrations continued with athletic competitions that included wrestling, lifting, and horse riding. Harrer also noticed the wide array of cultures present in Lhasa, including Chinese, Nepalese, Mongolian, Muslim, and more, each of whom had a unique influence there.
In the summer, Harrer’s sciatica was nearly healed, and they were once again ordered to leave. They protested, and it became the last time they were ever told to go.
Harrer’s time in Lhasa presents a contrast between Eastern and Western ways of life which underscores the cultural intersection unfolding in Tibet’s capital, reflecting The Value of Cultural Encounter and Adaptation. Lhasa itself, once imagined by Harrer as isolated and purely traditional, in reality includes global influences like foods, goods, and pop culture from around the world. Despite differences, Harrer draws spiritual parallels, noting, “Whether it is Lhasa or Rome—all are united by one wish: to find God and to serve Him” (145), emphasizing Harrer’s search for shared human aspirations across cultures instead of viewing them as entirely separate. The longer Harrer lives in Tibet, the more he integrates into the culture and feels emotionally connected to it. He begins working in Lhasa, constructing a fountain for Tsarong and helping Aufschnaiter build an irrigation canal. This marks an important turning point in his narrative, marking his shift from observer to participant.
Despite his deepening involvement with the community, Harrer also grows frustrated by Tibet’s resistance to modernization, which reveals his enduring Western-centric biases against cultures and places that follow other traditions and values. He notes how men laboriously haul flagpoles by strapping them to their own bodies, as well as their rejection of the wheel and other technologies. He does not seek to understand why the Tibetans have chosen to do this; instead, he insists on regarding their choices as regressive and invalid. Harrer sees signs that Tibet may have once been more technologically advanced, like oversized stone structures which could only have been transported using wheels, and is struck by the belief that the Potala Palace was built by gods. His reflections reveal the ongoing biases that shape his view of Tibet, leading to a lingering inability to get to know the people and place on their own terms instead of constantly measuring them against Western assumptions.
Reaching Lhasa represents a spiritual and physical climax for Harrer and his companion, adding another dimension to Nature as Barrier and Sanctuary. Upon arrival, he writes, “We were soon in front of the turquoise-roofed bridge and saw for the first time the spires of the Cathedral of Lhasa. The sun set and bathed the scene in an unearthly light” (113), suggesting the city’s beauty and spiritual aspect. Now freed from the rigors of their months-long trek, the men can experience the landscapes and sites around them in new ways. Upon seeing the golden Potala Palace, he recalls, “We felt inclined to go down on our knees like the pilgrims and touch the ground with our foreheads” (111), illustrating a moment of awe and reverence.
Harrer and his companion’s journey to Lhasa also reflects Personal Transformation Through Adversity. Refreshed and reinvigorated by their new lives in Tibet, they begin to develop more curiosity in what is going on around them and start to change emotionally and intellectually in response.
Their arrival coincides with the Tibetan New Year, a major cultural and religious celebration that includes processions led by the Dalai Lama and other high monks. Harrer, once solely concerned with survival and escape, now finds beauty and meaning in everything that surrounds him.
Harrer and his companion also experience suspense as they are received with curiosity by officials and even meet the Dalai Lama’s family, but the Dalai Lama himself remains distant for now. After refusing multiple orders to leave—which, again, demonstrates the men’s ongoing sense of entitlement and arrogance toward the Tibetan government’s authority—Harrer begins to feel at home. Europe, in contrast, seems distant, chaotic, and increasingly undesirable. Lhasa, once a mysterious goal and a place of legend, becomes a place of rest, belonging, and reflection.



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