Sweet Bean Paste

Durian Sukegawa’s novel is rooted in the meticulous art of crafting wagashi, traditional Japanese confections often served with tea. Central to many wagashi, including the dorayaki pancakes featured in the book, is anko, or sweet bean paste. The novel elevates the preparation of this ingredient from a simple culinary task into a profound spiritual practice. Tokue, the elderly woman who transforms the struggling dorayaki shop, treats the process with a reverence that reflects deep cultural values surrounding craftsmanship, patience, and attention to detail. She insists that “[b]ean paste is the soul of dorayaki” and demonstrates this belief by “Listening” to the adzuki beans and imagining the “beautiful fine weather that they have witnessed” on their journey (19, 134). This mindful approach is a key theme, serving as Tokue’s primary means of connecting with the world and asserting her dignity.

The novel’s focus on confectionery as a high art form is grounded in Japanese culture, where establishments like Toraya, a company founded in the 16th century, are revered for their centuries-long dedication to the craft. Toraya is celebrated for its exacting standards and deep respect for the history and seasonality of its ingredients, mirroring Tokue’s philosophy. By grounding its central