The Log From The Sea of Cortez

John Steinbeck

61 pages 2-hour read

John Steinbeck

The Log From The Sea of Cortez

Nonfiction | Autobiography / Memoir | Adult | Published in 1951

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Chapters 9-15Chapter Summaries & Analyses

Chapter 9 Summary

After sorting and labeling specimens, the crew goes ashore to the cannery and then rides with Chris, the manager, and Señor Luis, the port captain, to San Lucas, a town damaged by winter surf and flood. At a dusty cantina, morose young men linger while the proprietor plays loud records. There is no ice or electricity, only gasoline lanterns and many cockroaches. The crew drinks beer, buys straw hats, and departs when everyone seems “too far gone in sorrow” (56). Chris describes a local liquor, damiana, said to be an aphrodisiac. The crew purchases a bottle intending to test it “under laboratory conditions” (56), but US customs in San Diego later confiscate it because it contains alcohol. Steinbeck notes that there is “no true aphrodisiac” (57) aside from the act of sex itself.


That night, the party walks through sandy hills under a black sky and comes upon a rough cross lit by a candle in a kerosene can, marking the spot where a fisherman “fell down and died” (59). The group returns to the pier; since the Sea-Cow predictably refuses to start, they row back to the Western Flyer. The same sad young men appear on the pier watching as the skiff pulls away. With the cannery engine off, no pier light burns. The crew turns in. On the beach, pigs and vultures fight over offal while skinny dogs steal quick mouthfuls before either side can hold the ground.

Chapter 10 Summary: “March 18”

With tides short, the crew leaves San Lucas for Pulmo Reef. Approaching shallow green water, Tony posts a lookout in the crow’s nest to spot rocks and anchors near the reef. A canoe from a small rancheria comes alongside. The ragged men and a woman cover their mouths with greasy blankets “to protect themselves” (63). They linger silently until one offers a matchbox of misshapen pearls; the crew trades cigarettes and the visitors paddle away. The skiff is loaded with bars, jars, tubes, and buckets. The Sea-Cow starts up and actually works for a short while, before quitting when it becomes “aware of its mistake” (64), so they row to the reef.


Wearing boots for stinging organisms, they collect widely on the coral: Gorgonians, cushion stars, puffer fish, barnacles, brittle-stars, oysters, limpets, sponges, corals, peanut worms, sea cucumbers, many crabs, and the stinging worm Eurythoë. Sharp urchin spines pierce toes. One diver retrieves a single large sea-fan from under the reef. Pieces of coral are kept in pans so hidden residents emerge as the water goes stale. Behind the reef, warm water invites diving for perfect coral knobs in tennis shoes.


Back aboard, Tex disassembles the Sea-Cow and discovers it will “run perfectly out of water” (67) but fails whenever they actually need it. Underway again, the crew preserves and labels an extensive haul, already short on small containers. Mirages along the coast distort headlands; trolling yields a skipjack, but attempts to take photographs fail. Swordfish and manta rays appear; a light harpoon only grazes a tail. Rising wind forces a shift to shelter at Pescadero Point, where they anchor and cook the skipjack. After dinner, Tex’s aversion to washing dishes causes an intervention. When the dirty dishes are dumped in his bunk, he finally accepts that he must do his part to wash the dishes. The night is “quiet and strange” (75) at anchor, with the crew reading and listening to fishermen on the radio.

Chapter 11 Summary: “March 20”

At dawn, the Western Flyer crosses from Pescadero Point to the southern end of Espíritu Santo Island, its exposed shore contrasting with sheltered La Paz. Manta rays appear at the surface and two yellowfin tuna hit the trolling lines. The crew anchors off a bouldery beach and everyone but Tony goes ashore to collect specimens. The shore teems with life: Sulfur-dusted sea cucumbers dominate, with giant brittle-stars a close second. They also find multiple starfish and urchins (including the sharp, poisonous Centrechinus mexicanus), many crabs and shrimps, anemones, worms (the stinging Eurythoë), chitons, limpets, clams, flatworms, sponges, bryozoans, and snails. Back aboard, a sea cucumber yields a pale commensal fish that repeatedly darts in and out of its anus. With holds filling, they decide to preserve enough of the common cucumbers and brittle-stars and thereafter just note occurrences.


After Sparky cooks the tuna, two Indigenous persons from a nearby ranchería visit in a plaster-coated dugout canoe. Once fortified with Sparky and Tiny’s over-strong wine, they grow talkative and depart with prized empty tins. Eager for La Paz but avoiding night pilot fees, the Flyer anchors off Prieta Point until daylight, then is guided by a pilot through the winding channel to a berth off town. Officials board and assign courteous armed guards to the ship, then an agent begins provisioning while the crew goes ashore. They return laden with curios.


On the warm, flat shallows east of town, the party collects a new suite of lagoon species: Ghost shrimps in burrows, decorated crabs, purple polyclad worms, hacha oysters, corals, nudibranchs, mantis shrimps, sipunculids, and more. Local boys discover that they can be paid per specimen and swarm the boat with finds. One ambitious fixer overreaches and is beaten by rivals. Another boy timidly asks for “cinco centavos” (95) and Steinbeck imagines his bullying father at home. They give him a peso before pushing off, prices in town already nudging upward once boatmen learned the Sea-Cow would not run.

Chapter 12 Summary: “March 22”

On Good Friday in La Paz, the crew cleans up and attends church, where a children’s choir sings the Stations of the Cross and a fervent young priest delivers a stirring sermon. Afterward, they wander the quiet streets. Seeking provisions, they purchase two chickens; a chaotic yard chase draws half the neighborhood before the birds are caught. Sparky kills and stews them, but the “gallant, fast chickens” (99) prove inedible.


That afternoon, they cross to the broad tidal flats of El Mogote with Raúl Velez, a helpful local youth with a canoe who shares regional names for marine life. On the warm, shallow sands, they collect two species of Dentalium, several small anemones and sand anemones, multiple sea cucumbers (including small black forms and a pepper-and-salt type), heart urchins, common and burrowing brittle stars, sponges, tunicates, flatworms, stinging and peanut worms, an echiurid, and a striking white sea-whip colony. Working up toward the mangroves, they note the foul smell and heavy life among the roots, including large hermit crabs, then take barnacles from a wreck lying on the flat.


They buy Raúl’s iron harpoon (later to be lost in a manta) but cannot purchase a prized Nayarit canoe. At dusk, they return to find the deck crowded with boys selling specimens; their courteous armed guard manages the crowd and quietly shames a boy who attempts to deceive. A boy presents a botete fish, known locally as poisonous and used to kill cats; they acquire specimens and note its prevalence in the shallows. Tiny reboards with specimens of pubic lice. That night, they stroll La Paz once more, then sit on deck listening to the tide and the distant barking of dogs as the trading boat is pumped for departure.

Chapter 13 Summary: “March 23”

They depart from La Paz in the morning with the pilot guiding them out, then head north toward San José Island and anchor at Amortajada Bay. Drawn to the small dark islet Cayo, they row over when the Sea-Cow again refuses to run. Around Cayo, they find no landing place and see large iron rings and “very old” (107) chains set in boulders and in the cliff, plus shallow caves with fire sites piled with clam and turtle shells and even fresh diced turtle meat, despite there being no clams, wood, water, or safe anchorage on the islet.


They climb to the flat top, note sparse grass, cactus, and a single black crow, and then collect a scant fauna: Small pale Heliaster sun-stars, a few anemones, sea cucumbers, sea rabbits, Aletes snails, serpulid worms, several other snails, isopods, and beach-hoppers, with lots of Sally Lightfoot crabs. As the tide threatens the skiff they row back, cursing the Sea-Cow. Tex fully dismantles the Sea-Cow under a deck light, reassembles it, and proves it will run by taking a short trip.


That night, anchored near San José, the crew is plagued by biting black beetle-like flies; unable to sleep, they talk while Tiny recounts “decoratively disreputable sagas” (108) from his past.

Chapter 14 Summary: “March 24, Easter Sunday”

The crew reaches a “hot and yellow” (109) beach and swims. They walk along the sand and then inland on a ridge that separates the beach from a mangrove lagoon. The lagoon side shows thousands of burrows that likely belong to large land crabs. The shores hold clicking fiddler crabs and estuarine snails. The mangrove flowers give a fresh grassy odor without the foul scent of roots. The water lies still and reflects the green mangroves and the red brown mountains. Occasionally, a lagoon fish breaks the surface. Collecting is light and unhurried. They rest and talk.


The setting is quiet, so Steinbeck begins to reflect on “teleological notions” (112). Informed by the thinking of Ed Rickeets, he sets out the contrast between “cause effect thinking” and what they call “non teleological” thinking. Steinbeck links this method to observation in the field. He frames events as expressions rather than as results, asking what and how rather than why. Concrete examples support the method. Economic want during the Depression, Steinbeck suggests, illustrates statistical realities of employment. The sea hare Tethys, which produces hundreds of millions of eggs, illustrates extreme variance and selection. Variation in human height and in the length of matches shows the universality of deviation around a mean. A note on leadership compares mass movement to the flow of an ameba into its pseudopod.


Steinbeck relates micro level freedom and macro level pattern. He remarks on quanta, on the constancy of the speed of light, and on the persistence of residual anomalies. He holds that a full picture must include errors and beliefs in proportion to their spread. He presents non teleological thinking as a modus operandi that can extend from thinking to living.


As evening comes, Steinbeck notes that collecting, eating, sleeping, and talking merge with the sea, the light, and the engine into one perceived whole, the “deepest word of deep ultimate reality” (125).

Chapter 15 Summary

The crew leaves Amortajada Bay at noon and heads north along the coast to Marcial Reef near Marcial Point, the southern limit of Agua Verde Bay. They arrive in mid-afternoon and work the late tide on a northern boulder pile of the central reef. The water does not fall as predicted, so access is limited. They note a few polyclads high on the rocks. They take two large and many small chitons. Many urchins sit beyond reach below the surface. Clouds of larval shrimps circle in the shallows. The station yields few forms.


After dark, they hang a shaded lamp close to the water and use dip nets and porcelain pans. Pelagic isopods and mysids swarm into the light. Small fish move into the circle and larger fish flash at the edge. Before dawn they return to the reef with seven cell focusing flashlights. The narrowed beam improves detail and shows nocturnal activity. They lift a large blue and orange spiny lobster from a crevice without struggle. The cavities hold many club-spined urchins and sharp-spined purple urchins. Two familiar starfish are found with a third species that will prove common farther north. They collect many rayed sun stars and a flat sea cucumber that is new to them. Puffer fish feed near the surface. Brittle stars move openly across the bottom.


Back aboard, they record chitons, tunicates, turbellarian flatworms that resist preservation, brittle stars, small crabs, snapping shrimps, plumularian hydroids, bivalves, snails, small urchins, worms, hermit crabs, sipunculids, sponges, and heavy numbers of pelagic larvae. The crew remarks on the density of small pelagic animals in the warm, shallow water. They raise anchor and continue north. Lines on the stays bring in skipjack and sierra. The sierra is golden with blue spots, swims fast, and provides firm white meat that fries well. A light harpoon remains ready at the bow for swordfish, but attempts fall short and no strike lands. The routine of running to a station, collecting, preserving, and moving on fixes into habit.

Chapters 9-15 Analysis

Though the crew regularly meet local and Indigenous people, Steinbeck occasionally describes the haunting experience of landing ashore and finding camps or habitations which have been abandoned, drawing attention to Interconnection and the Ecology of All Life. The descriptions of old chains, ports, and extinguished campfires—often coupled with descriptions of harvested fauna—allude to the effect that humans have on the natural world. Though many people try to live in tune with the natural world, there are hostile forces. Not only are sharks common in the water, but drowning, poison, and the weather provide constant threats to those who are not on guard.


The eerie mood in the abandoned camps is a reminder to the crew (and to the audience) that the ecosystems being studied are not reliant on humans. Humans can be removed at no great cost to the animals and plant life; in fact, the natural world may even benefit from losing the humans as a destructive force. The old, abandoned camps and settlements show a potential future without humans as central figures in ecosystems. Their presence is felt only in their absence, which becomes particularly ominous for those humans who are seeking to explore these natural worlds.


As well as describing the natural world and the scientific process of documentation, Steinbeck also occasionally veers into discussions of more abstract ideas, reflecting Exploration as Both Literal and Intellectual Journey. His fondness for philosophy is a particular motif in the book, especially the ideas fueled by his frequent conversations with Ed Ricketts. These conversations puncture through the narrative almost as mood pieces, as deliberations on the state of the world and on the state of the human condition that are made while drifting at sea. The vast expanse of the sea invites these broad thoughts and, given how long the crew spends in close proximity to one another, they feed off one another’s ideas in a symbolic extension of the ecosystems they are studying. Much like these ecosystems, the philosophical ideas are a part of the natural order of men on a boat. Given time, space, and a contrast in characters, these conversations spring up naturally and filter through to the narrative much in the same way that crabs, cucumbers, and clams are found scattered on different beaches.


Another recurring aspect of The Log from the Sea of Cortez is the trouble with the Sea-Cow. The Sea-Cow is a small outboard motor which—the crew hopes—will make their incursions from boat to land much easier. Unfortunately for the crew, the motor of the Sea-Cow refuses to work. Steinbeck personifies and demonizes the outboard motor with regularity, suggesting that the engine itself has a spiteful, bitter character that revels in infuriating the crew. The Sea-Cow works whenever it is not needed; whenever it is needed, or whenever its use would be a genuine relief, it refuses to do anything. This humorous motif highlights the traditional nature of the trip. While the scientific mission may be modern, the means of carrying it out are decidedly traditional. Since the crew are forced to row rather than rely on a motor, they are framed as belonging to the traditions of the past rather than the technologies of the future.


This is even more evident in Steinbeck’s description of the canoes which belong to the Indigenous people. The crew covets these canoes, wishing that they could buy them. The canoes are guarded technology, however; unlike the Sea-Cow, they work so well that they are fundamental cornerstones of people’s lives, so they cannot be given away. Any time the Sea-Cow does not work, the crew is reminded not to rely on technology. The ancestral knowledge and traditional techniques of the Indigenous people are, in these ways, affirmed as being more useful than modern technology when documenting ecosystems.

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