Tracks: A Woman's Solo Trek Across 1700 Miles of Australian Outback

Davidson reflects on Alice’s politics and culture. The pub was segregated— although segregation was illegal in Australia—and the regular customers were difficult. Desperate for money, Davidson stuck with the job anyway but grew depressed. Her plan felt impossible without Kurt. One day, he started visiting her at the bar. He was apologetic and charming, insisting she return to the farm. She needed help, missed Gladdy, and was tired of the pub.

Davidson returned to working and living at Kurt’s. He was a good teacher, and she gradually learned about camels. His land was beautiful, too. One of the only things Davidson and Kurt agreed on was how much they hated tourists. Kurt relied on them to sustain the farm but was never polite. He started teaching Davidson to ride. She began with a bull named Dookie. Not long after, Kurt told Davidson he would give her two camels for free and make her gear for the trip if she continued working for him for the next eight months. Davidson doubted he’d fulfill his promise, but agreed anyway.

Kurt helped Davidson take a crow from its nest that became her new pet, Akhnaton. She made friends with the neighbors at Basso’s Farm—a group of hippies that Davidson loved spending time with. Her only alone time was when she went to bed in a tent her sister had sent her. When the tent was destroyed in a storm, she had to move back into Kurt’s house. He became increasingly dictatorial, but Davidson stood up to him. She took a new job offer from Sallay instead. She learned a lot from Sallay, as his style was much different from Kurt’s.

Davidson reflects on that first year in Alice. She didn’t think she was changing, but felt alone and decided to visit her friends in Queensland. She reunited with her close friend Nancy, who was especially supportive of Davidson’s plans. Davidson reflects on the importance of such friendships. When she returned to Alice, she felt different. In retrospect, she realizes how bored she’d been with her life and how much she needed the trip. The Queensland visit reminded her of this.

Back in Alice, Davidson chose the camels Alcoota Kate (Kate) and Zeleika (Zelly) for her trip. She moved into the Basso’s farmhouse, too, as the neighbors had moved away. This was the first time she’d lived alone and she basked in her solitude. She reflects on her evolving regard for loneliness.

Davidson was close with the neighbor, Ada Baxter. She often came over to share drinks with Davidson and ended up staying the night. Davidson was also good friends with locals Jenny Green and Toly Sawenko. She hadn’t wanted more friends, but they “wooed [her] with their wit, warmth and intelligence” (43). She stayed close with Gladdy, through whom she also met Frankie and Joanie, two children from the nearby Aboriginal tribe.

Although she had friends, Davidson sometimes felt uneasy living alone. She didn’t mind the solitude, but local men often wandered up to the house and tried coming in. Davidson learned to scare them away with her unloaded gun. There were other downsides, too. Some of the Aboriginal children had stealing habits. Davidson explains the Mount Nancy community they lived in and why they didn’t have the same concept of money or property. She explains the Aboriginal plight in Australia, as the people have been historically disadvantaged. They are subjugated under a system of apartheid that isn’t recognized as such. Further, any efforts the Department of Aboriginal Affairs makes to restore Aboriginal land or to reduce homelessness have been thwarted.

Davidson’s depression returned. She started doubting her plan again. Worse, the camels were struggling. Kate was sick with an infection. Missing her mate, Zelly grew thin. It took Davidson weeks to heal Kate’s wound and training Zelly to ride in the meantime was challenging.

One day, Sallay came out to visit Davidson. He said Zelly was unwell because she was pregnant. He thought it wasn’t such a bad thing for her trip, as the calf would keep Zelly close to the pack at all times. He didn’t think Kate’s condition would improve. Davidson knew he was right but hadn’t wanted to admit it. That night, she shot Kate to end her misery. Alone in her house, she grieved. She was upset about killing Kate and now knew the trip would never happen. Worse, she’d wasted the last year and a half.