Under the Tuscan Sun

Frances Mayes

46 pages 1-hour read

Frances Mayes

Under the Tuscan Sun

Nonfiction | Autobiography / Memoir | Adult | Published in 1996

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Chapters 9-13Chapter Summaries & Analyses


Chapter 9 Summary: “Cortona, Noble City”

Mayes drives to Cortona, passing Etruscan tombs on the hillsides. She walks the central piazzas with a guidebook, noting open-air markets, festivals, and the social rhythm of café conversations. She observes the architectural layers—from Etruscan foundations and medieval facades to modern shopfronts—and sees how families live above their stores. She points out the narrow, often sealed side doors, known as “doors of the dead” (151), once used, during the plague, to carry out corpses, a reminder of how daily life intersects with old customs.


She visits artisan shops: a clock repairer, a cobbler, and a tailor who shares old photographs. She buys produce from Maria Rita, a vendor, and they trade recipes. In a frame shop, she accidentally breaks an antique mirror and insists on paying the owner, Antonio. Climbing to upper Cortona, she steps into churches to see significant art and Etruscan artifacts. She ends her walk at the Etruscan wall called Bramasole, which gives her house its name, and reflects on the ancient sun worship embedded in the stones.

Chapter 10 Summary: “Riva, Maremma: Into Wildest Tuscany”

In early winter, Mayes and Ed secure the house and travel to the Maremma, a once-malarial swamp region. In Montalcino, they tour the fortress, taste Brunello, and buy bottles for their cellar. They attend vespers with Gregorian chants at the abbey of Sant’Antimo. Continuing to Pitigliano and Sovana, they hike to Etruscan tombs and bathe in hot springs near Saturnia. At Tarquinia, they study painted tombs, then drive to remote Norchia, where cliff-carved tombs unsettle them. Over dinner in Montemerano, a diner proposes to his partner in front of the whole room.


They reach coastal spots like Talamone, then turn inland to the roofless Gothic abbey of San Galgano. Along the way, they notice local foods and seasonal customs. Back at Bramasole, they carry the Brunello to the cellar. While digging in the garden, Mayes uncovers a small iron horse figurine, a tangible link to the ancient landscape.

Chapter 11 Summary: “Turning Italian”

As late summer builds toward Ferragosto, the August 15th Italian holiday, Mayes watches Ed lean into local habits: He keeps tidy lists, masters the espresso machine, and adopts an assertive driving style. He tends the terraces with hand tools, repairs stone edges, and savors the work, which recalls his family’s farming past. She acknowledges that while they adapt, one can only go so far in becoming Italian.


They mark Ferragosto at Cortona’s Sagra della Bistecca, sharing a table with a local family and eating grilled steak. Their neighbor, Placido, a farmer and falconer, visits to train his bird on their property, feeding it a live quail as they watch. An American woman calls to say that Mayes’s story spurred her to change her own life. Before they leave for the day, Mayes sees Placido’s young daughter walking down the lane with the falcon on her glove, an image of continuity.

Chapter 12 Summary: “Green Oil”

They return to Bramasole in December to winter fog. One of their carpenters, Marco, advises them to delay picking olives until after the rains. While they wait, they tour several frantoi, or oil mills, to find one for their small harvest, comparing traditional stone milling to modern centrifuges. When the weather clears, they begin the exhausting work of raking and handpicking. In town, Maria Rita offers recipe tips, and the butcher, Bruno, locks them in his freezer as a prank. Francesco Falco joins them to finish the harvest and prune the trees.


They deliver their crates to the mill and watch the fruit turn into a stream of thick, green oil. They bring the cans home, bottle the yield, and taste it on bread. Marco installs new house doors, closing drafts against the cold. They visit Cortona’s olive oil festival to sample different pressings and learn how weather and lunar cycles shape the harvest. The cycle of picking, pressing, and celebrating roots them more deeply in local custom.

Chapter 13 Summary: “Floating World: A Winter Season”

The holidays begin as Ashley arrives with her boyfriend, Jess, and the house fills with preparations. They drive to Florence to shop, and Ed surprises Mayes with a bag she admired. They cross Umbria to buy a special panettone (traditional Italian holiday cake) and Sagrantino wine. On Christmas morning, a light snowfall coats the garden. They open gifts and later walk along a Roman road, where they spot a fox. In the evening, they join expatriate friends, Fenella and Peter, for Christmas dinner.


They join Cortona’s evening passeggiata to visit presepi, or nativity scenes, in local churches. On New Year’s Eve, fog rises, and a ring of rainbows forms around a church dome. Before Ashley and Jess depart, they plant their living Christmas tree in the garden. While digging, they unearth a hedgehog skull, another small token from the soil. The season closes with a sense of new traditions anchored alongside the old.

Chapters 9-13 Analysis

These chapters mark a thematic and structural shift in the memoir, moving from the project-oriented narrative of restoration to a more cyclical exploration of cultural immersion. The focus pivots from the physical act of building a house to the process of building a life within a deeply layered landscape. This transition is anchored in an investigation of The Restorative Power of Place, which is now defined by both aesthetic beauty and engagement with history. Mayes’s walking tour of Cortona in Chapter 9 functions as a form of intellectual archaeology as she deciphers the town’s palimpsest of Etruscan, medieval, and Renaissance identities. Her observation of ancient foundations supporting modern buildings illustrates a central tenet of the Tuscan worldview: the coexistence of present and past. This understanding provides a crucial framework for her own reinvention. By situating her personal narrative within this vast historical continuum, the anxieties of her recent past diminish. The journey into the “wildest Tuscany” of the Maremma deepens this process, as encounters with remote Etruscan tombs prompt a meditation on the continuity and fragility of human endeavor.


The narrative craft of these chapters mirrors the author’s shift in consciousness away from goal-oriented achievement and toward an Italian appreciation for the rhythms of time. While the first half of the book is propelled by the forward momentum of the restoration, this section adopts a more thematic organization. Chapters are arranged around place (Cortona, the Maremma), cultural phenomena (“Turning Italian”), and seasonal rituals (the olive harvest, the Christmas holiday), reflecting Mayes’s own integration into the cyclical calendar of Tuscan life. This structural choice reinforces the idea that true belonging comes from internalizing the patterns of a place. The narrative lens zooms out from the particulars of Bramasole to the wider world, signifying that the house is no longer the sole project. Instead, it has become a stable center from which a new, more expansive life can be developed and lived. This transition culminates in the final chapters of the section, which are governed by the seasons, demonstrating that the author’s personal calendar has synchronized with the agricultural and liturgical cycles of her adopted home.


The narrative’s centering of food and the kitchen evolves in this section as it shifts from a source of sensual pleasure into a vehicle for cultural scholarship and the creation of new traditions, reinforcing the theme of Finding Joy in the Sensual Details of Daily Life. The act of cooking becomes a form of historical and cultural research. When Mayes attempts to make castagnaccio, a rustic chestnut flour cake emblematic of la cucina povera (“the poor kitchen”), its failure on the modern palate highlights the reality of the region’s past. The annual olive harvest in Chapter 12 is another regional ritual, a laborious process that connects Mayes and Ed directly to the land, their neighbors, and an agricultural cycle stretching back millennia. The resulting “green oil” is more than a condiment; it is a tangible product of their labor and a symbol of their integration into the productive life of the landscape. Finally, the detailed accounts of Christmas preparations with her daughter, Ashley, show Bramasole functioning as a true home, a place where old family traditions merge with new Tuscan ones to create a unique cultural synthesis. The kitchen is no longer just a renovated room but the hearth of a newly constituted family life.


Through the focused observation of her partner’s development, Mayes offers an externalized narrative of transformation that complements her own. Ed’s arc of “turning Italian” serves as tangible evidence of the memoir’s central premise: Place can reshape identity. His adoption of local mannerisms—from the ritual of espresso to an assertive driving style—is depicted not as mimicry but as a genuine internal shift. Most significant is his connection to the physical labor of managing the land. This work awakens a latent identity, connecting him to his own family’s farming past and grounding him in a way that his professional life does not. His identity is rewritten through his direct, hands-on interaction with the fruit trees, terraces, and stones of Bramasole. By chronicling Ed’s changes, Mayes suggests the experience is universal, available to anyone willing to immerse themselves in a new environment. This parallel journey strengthens the theme of Embracing Risk and Reinventing the Self by showing that the rewards of their shared leap of faith are comprehensive.


Throughout these chapters, the constant presence of the ancient world—in the form of Etruscan walls, Roman roads, and unearthed artifacts—functions as another element of the narrative framework. These remnants of the deep past provide a constant dialectic between the ephemeral and the eternal, shaping Mayes’s understanding of her own place in time. The Etruscan tombs of the Maremma are particularly resonant, evoking a sense of awe and mortality. The encounter with these sites prompts a reflection on the limits of knowledge, where she concludes, “We can’t recover the slightest gesture of those who chopped out this rock […] niente” (169). This awareness of the unrecoverable past lends an urgency to the act of living fully in the present. In contrast, the durability of structures like the Roman road or the Etruscan wall that names her house provides a sense of continuity, anchoring her new life to a story of human habitation thousands of years old. The small objects she and her family unearth from the soil—the iron horse, a hedgehog skull—act as talismans, physical links between their contemporary, domestic experience and this immense historical sweep.

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