Under the Tuscan Sun

Frances Mayes

46 pages 1-hour read

Frances Mayes

Under the Tuscan Sun

Nonfiction | Autobiography / Memoir | Adult | Published in 1996

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Key Figures

Frances Mayes

Frances Mayes, an American poet and former creative writing professor, is the protagonist and narrator of Under the Tuscan Sun. Born in Georgia in 1940, Mayes established a literary career as a poet before her 1990 purchase of Bramasole, an abandoned villa in Cortona, Tuscany. Her memoir became a touchstone for a late 20th-century fascination with experiential travel and cultural immersion. In the memoir, she frames the demanding work of restoring a house and land as a path toward healing and reinvention after a painful divorce. The quest for a house in Italy is deeply tied to her search for a new identity. “The house is a metaphor for the self, of course, but it also is totally real,” she writes, linking the physical act of restoration to the process of rebuilding her own life (11).


Mayes’s background as a poet from the American South shapes the memoir’s lyrical and reflective voice. Her aesthetic sensibilities inform her descriptions of the landscape, food, and the sensory details of her new life as she finds parallels between the Tuscan culture and the Southern culture she grew up with, adding an element of reconnection with her past to her search for home. The narrative is structured around the renewal of the house, garden, and kitchen. These domestic projects serve as the scaffolding for Mayes’s journey toward a sense of belonging. By linking the act of making a home to the process of cultural immersion, she argues that identity can be reshaped and renewed through mindful attention to place and daily practice. The house becomes a vessel for a new way of living, one rooted in its immediate surroundings.


Her credibility comes from her direct, hands-on experience. Leading the multi-year restoration of Bramasole, she immerses herself in Tuscan food, agriculture, history, and culture. This lived expertise distinguishes her writing from that of a detached travel journalist. She presents herself as an active participant learning through trial and error, a process that allows her to forge genuine connections with her neighbors and the local culture.


Ultimately, Mayes’s purpose is to celebrate a life of slowness, conviviality, and connection to local history as a counterweight to a hurried and disconnected modern world. She articulates an ethic of place-based living, where joy is found in seasonal rhythms, shared meals, and the deep satisfaction of physical work. Under the Tuscan Sun is both a chronicle of personal transformation and a map of a more deliberate and sensuous way of life.

Edward (Kleinschmidt) Mayes

Edward Mayes, an American poet and writer, is Frances Mayes’s partner and her primary collaborator in the restoration of Bramasole. As a working writer himself, he shares Frances’s appreciation for the creative possibilities of their new life in Italy. His presence throughout the memoir is that of a co-steward, a steadying force whose practical skills and quiet optimism serve as a counterbalance to the author’s more anxious and reflective narration.


Edward’s role is rooted in shared labor. He is an active participant in the physical renewal of the house, leading demanding projects such as stonework, terrace building, and the kitchen renovation. His contributions demonstrate that the restoration is a true domestic partnership, built on mutual effort and a shared vision. While Frances chronicles their progress, Edward often provides the quiet, foundational work that makes progress possible. He embodies the consistent effort required to turn an idealistic dream into a tangible reality.


He also provides crucial emotional stability. During the many setbacks that threaten to derail the project, from bureaucratic delays to a dry well, his calm demeanor grounds the narrative. Frances notes that during her moments of doubt, “He has never wavered from his belief that this is a brilliant idea, that this is heaven on earth” (13). His steadfast optimism balances her anxieties and reinforces the memoir’s theme of Embracing Risk and Reinventing the Self, assuring the reader that their ambitious undertaking will ultimately succeed.


Edward appears in dialogues, road trips, and daily routines that give the memoir its narrative shape. Mayes reflects that, more than herself, Edward quickly adopted the ways of their new home, both in small ways, like his newly reckless driving or his adopted love of espresso, and in larger ways, like his deep love of the land and all it produces. He also finds the Italian approach to time, festina tarde, easier to adopt than Frances initially does. His interactions with Frances and their Italian neighbors animate the scenes and illustrate the couple’s shared process of cultural learning. As both a partner in the home and a fellow artist, he helps ground the memoir’s romantic vision in the practical, everyday work of building a life together.

Stanislaw, Riccardo, and Cristoforo (the Polish construction crew)

The Polish construction crew consists of three migrant laborers—Stanislaw, Riccardo, and Cristoforo—who rebuild a major stone wall at Bramasole. Working seasonally in early 1990s Italy, they represent a broader historical shift of labor migration from Eastern Europe into the building and agricultural trades following the end of the Cold War. In the memoir, they embody the dignity of skilled craft and foster an unexpected cross-cultural exchange with the author. They are quick to alert Mayes to the fact that their boss is untrustworthy, even as they build a strong, beautiful wall without his help. Although they speak no English and only a few words of Italian, and Mayes speaks no Polish, they connect when she says, “Czeslaw Milosz,” referencing a famous Polish American poet. Stanislaw “lit up,” and from then on, the poet’s name became a greeting that they shared daily, another of the narrative’s examples of how connection can happen in spite of language differences.


The crew’s primary function in the renovation is to execute the painstaking masonry required to stabilize the property. Their physical labor is the foundation of the aesthetic “dream” of restoration, demonstrating the demanding work that underpins the romantic vision of a Tuscan villa. Mayes highlights their practical expertise as they advise on mortar mixes and proper foundations. Their most significant act comes upon the completion of their work, when they leave a permanent mark on the house. Mayes discovers that “In large letters, they’ve written POLONIA in the concrete” (56). This inscription serves as a powerful and enduring symbol of their contribution, placing them on the long historical continuum of Bramasole.

Anselmo Martini

Signor Martini is the local real estate agent in Cortona who first shows Frances Mayes the abandoned villa of Bramasole. As a classic fixer and cultural interpreter, he represents the traditional networks of small-town Italian life in the 1990s, where business depends as much on personal reputation as it does on official paperwork. He is the catalyst for the entire narrative, opening the door not only to the house but to the local community.


Martini’s role extends far beyond that of a typical agent. He is a pragmatic guide who navigates the complexities of the Italian bureaucracy, introducing Mayes and her partner to contractors, bankers, and other essential contacts. He also serves an important emotional function, offering humor, practical advice, and neighborly assurance during the frustrating delays and cultural misunderstandings that mark the early stages of the restoration. He humanizes the bureaucratic hurdles and helps bridge the gap between the American newcomers and the established local customs.


Over time, his relationship with Mayes deepens from a professional arrangement to a genuine friendship. He becomes a familiar presence at Bramasole, tasting her marmalade and her torta della nonna and offering advice on olive trees and pine nuts. This evolution highlights Mayes’s progress toward assimilation into the local community, their developing relationship paralleling her changing relationship to the community as a whole.

St. Francis of Assisi

St. Francis of Assisi (c. 1181-1226), a Christian friar and the Italian founder of the Franciscan Order, serves as a historical and spiritual touchstone in the memoir. His association with the nearby hermitage of Le Celle gives him a strong local presence, and Mayes uses his philosophy to provide a contemplative framework for her own project of restoration and renewal. He represents an ethic of humility, repair, and connection to the natural world that aligns with the memoir’s core themes.


Mayes links the daily work at Bramasole to a form of spiritual ecology rooted in Franciscan ideals. When she visits Le Celle, she reflects on the saint’s praise of creation and his embrace of poverty. This connection is made explicit during her struggles with the villa’s water supply. Invoking the saint’s famous poem, “The Canticle of the Creatures,” (also known as “The Canticle of the Sun”), Mayes frames her efforts not as mere logistics but as an ethical practice of stewardship and an act of respect for “Sister Water.”


The enduring legacy of St. Francis, visible in the continued presence of Franciscan sites and pilgrims in the region, connects Mayes’s personal journey of renewal to a long and living local tradition. By invoking his spirit, she elevates the domestic act of restoring a home into a practice of finding one’s place within the larger natural and spiritual landscape.

Elizabeth David

Elizabeth David (1913—1992) was a highly influential British cookery writer whose books, particularly Italian Food, reshaped home cooking in the post-war era by introducing Mediterranean flavors and techniques to a wide audience. In Under the Tuscan Sun, she serves as an initial contact who helps Mayes and Ed find their footing when they first arrive in the area, and a culinary influence whose philosophy contributes to Mayes’s approach in her new kitchen. Elizabeth represents a tradition of thoughtful, place-based cooking that aligns with the memoir’s broader themes. This idea underscores the intuitive and unpretentious cooking style Mayes adopts, linking her everyday culinary practice to a deeper form of cultural immersion.

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