When Women Ran Fifth Avenue: Glamour and Power at the Dawn of American Fashion

Content Warning: This section of the guide contains discussion of racism and gender discrimination.

Gather initial thoughts and broad opinions about the book.

1. The book follows three pioneering women executives who shaped American department stores—Hortense Odlum, Dorothy Shaver, and Geraldine Stutz—each with distinctly different approaches to leadership. Which of these women’s stories resonated with you most strongly, and why?

2. How does Satow’s approach to retail history in When Women Ran Fifth Avenue compare to her exploration of another iconic New York institution in The Plaza: The Secret Life of America’s Most Famous Hotel? If you haven’t read her previous work, how does this retail history compare to other business histories such as Barbarians at the Gate?

3. Department stores are portrayed in the book as “uniquely female universes where women commanded power in ways that were often unattainable elsewhere” (13). How effectively does Satow convey the significance of these spaces as sites of female empowerment during the mid-20th century?

Encourage readers to connect the book’s themes and characters with their personal experiences.

1. Hortense Odlum famously blamed her career for the failure of her marriage, while Dorothy Shaver remained single to pursue her ambitions. How do you navigate the balance between professional goals and personal relationships in your own life?

2. The book highlights how department stores evolved from selling merchandise to creating immersive shopping “experiences.” How have your own shopping preferences and experiences with retail spaces changed over time?

3. Each of the women whom Satow profiles faced significant barriers to leadership due to the gender expectations of their era. What expectations or assumptions have you encountered in your professional life based on your gender or other aspects of your identity?

4. Geraldine Stutz’s success at Henri Bendel came partly from her ability to spot emerging designers. How do you determine what trends to embrace in your own style choices, and what influences your decisions?

5. The female executives in the book often leveraged their understanding of women customers’ needs to improve their stores, like Dorothy Shaver’s introduction of petite sizing and childcare services. Can you think of an instance when you felt that a business truly understood and addressed your specific needs as a consumer? How did it make you feel?

6. The department stores in Satow’s book were cultural institutions that shaped public taste beyond simply selling products. What spaces or institutions have influenced your own tastes?

Examine the book’s relevance to societal issues, historical events, or cultural themes.

1. Satow contrasts the experiences of white female executives with those of Black entrepreneurs like Maggie Lena Walker, who faced both sexism and racism in establishing the St. Luke Emporium. How does the book’s discussion of race and retail contribute to our understanding of intersectional barriers in American business history?

2. The book traces how department stores reflected changing social attitudes toward working women throughout the 20th century, from the flapper era through post-war domesticity. What parallels do you see between these historical shifts and contemporary debates about women in the workplace?

3. Many of the department stores featured in the book have closed or dramatically downsized in recent decades, including Henri Bendel’s closure in 2019 and Lord & Taylor’s shift to online-only in 2021. What factors have contributed to the decline of the grand department store era?

Dive into the book’s structure, characters, themes, and symbolism.

1. How does Satow’s choice to focus on three primary protagonists and intersperse their stories with shorter profiles of other influential women strengthen or weaken the book’s overall narrative?

2. The tension between femininity and power recurs throughout the book. How does Satow illustrate this conflict through her contrasting portrayals of Hortense Odlum, who “diminished her business accomplishments” to “retain her feminine bona fides” (95), and Dorothy Shaver, who embraced her role as “America’s No. 1 Career Woman” (22)?

3. Department store windows and displays feature prominently in the book, from Salvador Dalí’s controversial Bonwit Teller windows to the “street theater” created by Robert Currie for Henri Bendel. What do they symbolize within Satow’s narrative?

4. How does Satow use the post-war economic boom and subsequent rise of suburban shopping branches and discount stores as a turning point in her retail history? What does this transition reveal about changing American values?

5. Satow presents a cyclical pattern of progress and backlash regarding women’s roles in American society. How does she use her protagonists’ stories to illustrate these broader cultural shifts?

6. Satow suggests that department stores wer “third spaces” between home and work where women could have agency and professional identities. How does she evolve this concept throughout the narrative, and how does it contribute to her argument about the importance of these retail spaces?

Encourage imaginative and creative connections to the book.

1. If you could redesign a department store for the 21st century, what would it include? How would you balance exclusivity with inclusivity?

2. Imagine you’re developing a historical drama series based on When Women Ran Fifth Avenue. Which of the three main women would you choose as your central character, and what aspects of department store culture would you emphasize?

3. The book ends with Satow speculating that her protagonists would celebrate the democratization of fashion through platforms like Etsy. Design your own small fashion or home goods business that might have thrived on Bendel’s Friday Morning Lineup in the 1960s or could succeed on an online platform today.

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