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Carter describes his experiences after the Review folded. Now without a job, he wasn’t sure where to go next. Although he hadn’t completed his degree, Carter was still interested in editing. He contacted the editors at The Paris Metro in Paris about a job. They gave Carter an audience, but they couldn’t offer him a paying position. Discouraged, Carter returned to Canada and pursued a publishing program at Sarah Lawrence in New York. While there, he privately met with all of the program’s visiting editors. (He was still determined to move to the city.) Finally, he secured a meeting with Ray Cave from Time. Ray didn’t have a position for him, but when Carter insisted he needed a job immediately, Ray caved. He returned to Canada, packed his things, bought a car, and drove back to New York.
Carter insists that his life wasn’t glamorous when he first moved to the city in the summer of 1978. It was hot, his apartment was small, he had no new clothes, and he was making little money. However, he felt happy. At Time, he was a floater, or employee who floated between departments, doing whatever work was needed. His favorite task was writing the People page, which presented “amusing stories about the well known or the infamous” (69).
Carter settled into life at Time as best he could. He liked his colleagues and was learning about the industry. His range of assignments taught him new things—particularly about the fashion industry. He recalls the first fashion-oriented pieces he worked on and the first suit he ever had tailored—which he still owns. He also describes the cast of editors, writers, and personalities he interfaced with during this era. Over time, however, Carter realized he wasn’t right for the Time culture. He was given a stint away from the city, which made him realize he needed a change. When he returned to New York, he left Time for Life.
Carter reflects on his transition from Time to Life. Life was once a reputable magazine, but its reputation was waning when Carter worked there. Its significance was particularly diminished by “the advent of television” (85). Carter quickly became disillusioned by the sleepy working atmosphere and started formulating an idea for a satirical magazine of his own. He invoked the help of his friends from Time and Life. His colleagues Anne, Kurt Andersen, and Aimée Bell were particularly influential, as was his second wife Cynthia. Finally they secured the necessary funding and launched Spy magazine in 1986.
Spy magazine offered witty, sardonic insider information into city culture and the magazine business. Their office was located in SoHo—a fashionable neighborhood rife with targets for satire. The early Spy team featured Susan Morrison, Bruce Handy, George Kalogerakis, and Bertie Wooster. They had a good rapport, but Spy did struggle to pay its employees well.
Spy was an almost instant hit. Its early pieces featured profiles on notable businessmen and magazine people—often from Vanity Fair. However, one of Carter’s favorite early Spy profiles is still the piece on Donald Trump. Trump was furious that Spy had poked fun at him for his small hands. Other subjects were similarly incensed by Spy’s jabs at their appearances.
Two years later, Spy was still doing well. Then one day, Condé Nast publisher Si Newhouse asked to buy Spy. Carter declined but later regretted the decision when Spy started to struggle financially. Despite these challenges, Carter felt positive about his future.
Carter recalls his move from Spy to The Observer. Carter was working on another new magazine idea when he met the owner of The Observer, Arthur Carter. Arthur wanted Carter to run his paper. Carter accepted, bringing Aimée Bell with him. His other Spy colleagues were disappointed but Carter was excited about revitalizing The Observer. Not long into this stint, Carter took a meeting with Si. Si wanted him to edit either Vanity Fair or The New Yorker. Carter chose the latter because he’d frequently satirized Vanity Fair in Spy. He then convinced Si to pay him five times as much as he was making at The Observer.
Carter details his transition from The Observer to the world of Condé Nast. He was working on a detailed transition plan when Si informed him that he’d given The New Yorker position to someone else; Carter would have to edit Vanity Fair.
Carter worried that the staff at Vanity Fair wouldn’t respect him and struggled to orient to the company culture. Many disliked him because of his work at Spy—a magazine that had satirized the well-heeled, glamor-seeking New Yorkers that Vanity Fair saw as its target audience. They didn’t respect his editorial decisions either. He lived in constant fear of losing his job, unsure why Si chose him for the position. However, Carter was not without allies. Aimée Bell (who came with him from The Observer), Pam McCarthy, Chris Garrett, Beth Kseniak, Wayne Lawson, Jane Sarkin, Diane von Fürstenberg, and Barry Diller were among his most positive sources of encouragement during this era. Relying on these colleagues boosted Carter’s confidence and helped him navigate this new world. Meanwhile, he tried to find stories that he wanted to print and to develop a new focus for the magazine. Si had just relaunched the magazine, as Vanity Fair had gone dark in 1935. Carter wanted to fully revamp the publication to help it survive and to realize Si’s vision. He details some of his early missteps with Vanity Fair and his efforts to make relationships in this world.
In Chapters 5-8, Carter details The Entanglement of Success, Celebrity, and Power as he describes his work to secure an editing position in New York City. After leaving The Canadian Review, Carter admits that he “was at a complete loss for what I would do next,” but acknowledges that his decision to give up on his college education was “for the magazine” (59). His intuition is that simply by coming to New York, he has placed himself in proximity to the powerful people who can give him the opportunities he seeks. The Canadian Review fosters Carter’s early love of print journalism and motivates him to seek editorial work in the city, and once there, he learns by doing, building connections along the way. His early editorial jobs expose him to the fast-paced professional environment of New York’s glossy magazines. Time, for example, “worked in ways that few other magazines did” as there was “a magical realism” to its operation (71). The publication had “a person for every conceivable need,” and thus covered the gamut of possible cultural, medical, and political topics (71). His self-deprecating descriptions of his job search infuse the memoir with wit and levity—reiterating the notion that Carter’s rise to editorial power was more haphazard than an outsider might suspect. While Carter’s eventual placement at Vanity Fair appears to be providential, Carter’s meandering depictions of his foray into New York print journalism suggest otherwise. He details his time at an array of other publications before Vanity Fair—a stylistic technique that enacts his unconventional journey into a successful and sustaining career.
Carter’s experiences at Time, Life, Spy, and The Observer capture The Media’s Impact on the Political and Cultural Narrative. At each of publication he worked for, Carter took part in an ongoing negotiation of influence between media and culture, as the magazines shaped the culture while simultaneously struggling to keep up with cultural and technological change. He noticed, for example, that Life was already being left behind in the television age, and he started Spy in part to address the perceived sluggishness of such legacy publications. Instead of representing New York culture in a serious, high-brow manner, Carter sought through Spy to expose the humor and absurdity of it. While the Spy team “didn’t really know any of the people [they] were writing about,” Carter quickly discovered how much reach and pull they had on New Yorkers at the time (particularly those of a certain celebrity and status). Spy was influential enough that real-estate mogul and future US president Donald Trump felt the need to push back against its jibes at his “small hands”—an insult that appeared to still rankle him on the campaign trail as late as 2016. Carter even goes so far as to hold that his first Trump article inspired Trump’s bestselling business handbook The Art of the Deal, which prompted The Apprentice, which helped to cement the public image of Trump as a brilliant businessman, smoothing his path to the presidency. This anecdote underscores the notion that even in its earliest analogue forms, media has the power to dictate how a culture understands itself.
Carter’s detailed descriptions of his time at Spy and The Observer also underscore his inherently bold, ostentatious approach to editing. Carter’s tone is consistently self-deprecating, but he never masks his early successes. At Spy, he launched out on his own and established himself in the historically gate-kept upper echelon of New York life. With The Observer, he gave up a job that he loved (leaving Spy) and took on the seemingly impossible task of revitalizing a sleepy newspaper with no readership. In highlighting these risks, Carter suggests that he was ahead of the cultural curve and thus a visionary in his own right. By including these experiences on the page, Carter formally captures how his more “small time” jobs ushered him towards his high-powered position at Vanity Fair—a job that he holds he was reluctant to take at the time. These anecdotal sequences also imply that success, celebrity, and power don’t always come to a person in a traditional manner. For Carter, he took chances and found himself in a position that would give him more cultural influence and reach than he ever could have imagined when he came to New York with no money in the late 1970s.



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