Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table

Ruth Reichl

56 pages 1-hour read

Ruth Reichl

Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table

Nonfiction | Autobiography / Memoir | Adult | Published in 1998

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Chapters 14-18Chapter Summaries & Analyses

Content Warning: This section of the guide includes discussion of substance use and mental illness.

Chapter 14 Summary: “Berkeley”

Reichl’s mother made constant demands on her time and got upset whenever Reichl traveled. Miriam was emotionally manipulative and domineering, and Reichl began to feel smothered. When Reichl began having panic attacks, Doug decided that they should move to Berkeley, California, to get far away from Miriam. When they arrived in Berkeley, Reichl felt free and at peace.


At first, they camped in the yard of a friend, Nick, who hosted a steady stream of partying young people who traveled from one coast to the other regularly. After a while, Reichl, Doug, Nick, and Nick’s partner, Martha, all decided to buy a house together. They embellished the details of their work and finances in order to get approved to buy a large home on Channing Way in Berkeley.


The group grew their own food, and Reichl and Martha cooked everything from scratch. A popular book called Diet for a Small Planet (1971) convinced them all to become vegetarians, and Reichl and Martha began to craft new, meatless recipes. One of these, for “Con Queso Rice,” is included in this chapter. More and more people started spending time at the house, and Reichl and Martha had to figure out how to stretch their food to feed everyone. The house on Channing Way gradually turned into a kind of countercultural commune.


Nick was very opposed to bourgeois ideals and often pushed the group to adopt new habits he thought were better for the planet, their bodies, and their community. One Thanksgiving, her proposed sourcing all of the ingredients for a vegetarian Thanksgiving from local dumpsters, to salvage food going to waste. The group found the idea ridiculous at first, but soon they were making a regular habit of sourcing food this way. This new method of acquiring food pushed Reichl to become even more inventive with her recipes.

Chapter 15 Summary: “The Swallow”

Miriam and Ernst visited whenever Miriam was in a manic phase. Miriam was distressed at the way Reichl was living and urged her to get a job in a restaurant, to have some kind of ambition for her future. Although she disagreed about the bourgeois ideal of ambition, Reichl was interested in the idea of working at a restaurant—she had her eye on one in particular, a highly-regarded worker-owned restaurant called The Swallow. Reichl includes a recipe for a pork and tomatillo stew from The Swallow.


At first, the committee of workers who cooperatively ran the restaurant did not seem impressed with Reichl’s credentials, believing her to be a dilettante, not a practical, hard-working professional. When she mentioned living in a commune, however, they reconsidered and allowed her to join their collective on a trial basis. Reichl thrived in the cooperative atmosphere of The Swallow and enjoyed the exhausting work of a professional kitchen. She worked hard to impress the much more experienced chefs and was eventually accepted as a permanent staff member and co-owner.


One difficulty at The Swallow was a regular customer named Rachel Rubenstein. Rubenstein developed a fascination with Reichl and spent more and more time at the restaurant. Her behavior became progressively more alarming, and eventually it was clear that she was mentally ill. The staff discussed banning Rubenstein but could not come to an agreement because some felt it was wrong, despite the potential danger she represented.


Rubenstein began following Reichl around town. In one encounter with the woman, Rubenstein insisted over and over that she and Reichl were the same and that Reichl could not escape the mental illness that would eventually overtake her, too. The staff of The Swallow, concerned about Reichl’s safety, suggested that it might be time for Reichl to find a different job.

Chapter 16 Summary: “Another Party”

In 1977, Doug was invited to Artpark, an arts festival near Buffalo, New York. It was a big break for him, and Reichl was proud of him but also slightly jealous of the attention his works brought him. She was pleased when a journalist came to write an article about the cooking classes she was giving at the festival and was flattered by the glowing write-up she got. The reporter’s exaggerated assertion that Reichl’s recipes were widely sought-after brought increasing numbers of people to watch Reichl’s demonstrations. She includes a recipe for “Artpark Brownies,” one of her most popular recipes.


Her happiness was somewhat diminished by another crisis brewing in her parents’ lives. Aunt Birdie’s 100th birthday was approaching, and Miriam had decided to throw her a birthday party. Reichl’s father called frequently, desperate to get her to leave Artpark and come help with the preparations. Miriam, as usual, had thrown the house into chaos and was storing huge quantities of discounted foods in the driveway. She had again called the newspapers for coverage and was inviting large numbers of people.


Reichl managed to stand her ground until her mother began calling several times a day, forcing Artpark staff to drop what they were doing and find Reichl. The director of the festival suggested that she leave early to resolve her family situation, and Reichl finally capitulated. When she arrived at their home, she was startled to see how unwell her father looked, but he made it clear that her mother did not like attention being paid to Ernst’s health instead of on her own.


Reichl had some difficulty getting her mother focused on party preparations, and she and her mother fought several times a day. Eventually, however, she managed to bring order to the house and the preparations. She decided to cook the dishes from Aunt Birdie’s wedding menu for the party and took pleasure in knowing both the guests and Aunt Birdie would be pleased. The party went well, and Reichl was flooded with gratitude toward Birdie and Alice for everything they had done to help prepare her for the world.

Chapter 17 Summary: “Keep Tasting”

That fall, Reichl was offered a job as a restaurant critic for a new San Francisco magazine. She was nervous during her first assignment, but she realized that the many people who had taught her about food and restaurants over the course of her life had prepared her well. The only way in which she felt unprepared was in the evaluation of wine. She struck up an acquaintance with a wine seller named Kermit Lynch and began buying wine from him, letting him teach her everything he knew about wine in the process. She invited him for dinner one night and made beef bourguignon with one of his wines—she includes a recipe for this dish. During the dinner, she asked him to take her along on his next trip to France to sample wines.


In France, Kermit took Reichl along on visits to many vintners—small and large producers who were all anxious to please him and secure orders from him. Kermit was extremely discerning, however, explaining to Reichl his exacting criteria and further educating her about the production of fine wines. She discovered that, as excellent as her own judgment about wine had become, Kermit could still taste elements of the wine that she could not.


Reichl was often surprised by the wines he turned down and saw how difficult it was for him to decline a purchase from struggling vintners who depended on his business. He explained to her, though, that part of what made him turn down certain wines was a desire to shape the wine market and improve the overall quality of what he could make available to the American market. She was impressed with his passion and the time and energy he committed to this project.

Chapter 18 Summary: “The Bridge”

Miriam’s criticism of Reichl’s chosen profession continued, and Reichl’s panic attacks returned. She became afraid to drive herself anywhere, and was particularly terrified of driving across bridges. When she was invited to a party honoring James Beard, she almost decided not to go; in the end, she got there using public transportation.


She was nervous at the party and ended up chatting with a man who did not intimidate her because he introduced himself as someone who “[worked] for a milk company” (270). The man introduced her to Marion Cunningham, saying that he thought they should know one another. After Reichl and Marion talked for a while, Marion insisted on introducing Reichl to James Beard himself.


Beard was dismissive, and Marion later told Reichl that Beard was often unpleasant to women. When Reichl replied that she preferred the company of “the milkman” to Beard’s, Marion asked whom she meant (271). Marion was amused to learn that this is how the great wine critic Gerald Asher had introduced himself to Reichl. Reichl was embarrassed to learn that she had been talking to someone important without knowing it and nervously asked whether Marion was someone important, too. Marion assured her that she was not, modestly referring to herself as “the last living home cook” (272).


In the weeks following, Marion quickly became a close friend of Reichl’s and shared many stories about the famous people she knew in the food world. Reichl shares Cunningham’s recipe for deviled eggs—a dish that was a big hit during the party for James Beard. On their way to lunch one day, Marion confided that she was once addicted to alcohol and was now a nondrinker. Reichl struggled to pay attention to the story, as she was driving and was coming up to the Bay Bridge. As Marion talked, Reichl tried desperately to hide her rising panic.


Marion seemed to have noticed, but did not directly comment. As they crossed the bridge, she gently began telling Reichl about struggling with phobias of her own—phobias so debilitating that she was nearly unable to leave her home. Marion kept talking calmly without drawing attention to Reichl’s terror. She explained that, in the end, her son Mark’s intervention helped her. He bought her a ticket to Portland to take a class with James Beard, which he knew she badly wanted to do. He told her that if she did not get on the plane for that trip, she would never get up the courage to do anything and would not accomplish her dreams. She was terrified, but she went—and each trip after that was easier.


They met Marion’s friend Cecilia Chiang at Cecilia’s acclaimed restaurant, The Mandarin. Cecilia served them several delicious foods Reichl had never tried before and told Reichl about fleeing China and gradually working her way to America and opening her restaurant. Marion and Cecilia agreed that they were both grateful that they never let marriage or motherhood interfere with their pursuit of their dreams. On the drive back, Reichl suddenly felt inspired by Marion and Cecilia. She faced the bridge with new strength, determined to move forward into the future she herself dreamed of.

Chapters 14-18 Analysis

Tender at the Bone is centered on the gradual development of Reichl’s youthful understanding of both herself and the world of food; its function as a coming-of-age narrative is enhanced by both structural and content choices in Chapters 14-18. Reichl’s chapter on her tenure at The Swallow, for instance, is focused on the people there and what she learned from them. She does not mention what a key part of the staff she was or how her contributions to The Swallow are viewed, in retrospect, as an integral part of shaping what would come to be called “California Cuisine.” This modesty regarding her role at the restaurant serves the larger narrative by downplaying how important Reichl was already becoming to the West Coast food scene, increasing the narrative impact of later chapters when she is offered her first cooking classes and then her first jobs writing about food.


Content choices like this emphasize forward motion and gradual progress—features typical of coming-of-age narratives. They also reflect important lessons that Reichl learned from the mentorship of women like Marion Cunningham, pointing out The Role of Relationships in Shaping the Self. Marion Cunningham reinvented herself late in life, overcoming addiction and serious phobias to become one of the nation’s leading food writers. By the time Reichl met Marion, Marion had been the legendary James Beard’s assistant for a decade and was in charge of a revision of the seminal Fannie Farmer Cookbook. In Reichl’s recounting of their meeting, however, Marion portrays herself as no one of any importance. Marion’s role-modeling is clear in the way Reichl downplays her own significance at The Swallow.


Another way that Marion’s mentorship influences Reichl is in Reichl’s determination to put her own phobias and panic attacks behind her at the end of the memoir’s final chapter. Since Chapter 1, it has been clear that Miriam Reichl’s mental illness has had a serious impact on her daughter Ruth. As a child, Ruth Reichl feels pressured to cater to her mother’s whims and does not receive the nurturing that children need. As an adolescent and young adult, Reichl rebels, but Miriam is still able to manipulate her and dominate her mental space in harmful ways. The negative impact of Miriam’s mental illness is exacerbated for Reichl when Rachel Rubenstein insists that Reichl, too, will end up dealing with mental illness. The memoir’s last chapter represents Reichl’s hope of making a final break with the burdensome phobias and panic attacks induced by her fear of being swallowed up by Miriam’s world. When she crosses “The Bridge” that gives the chapter its name, she is symbolically leaving behind this part of her early life and—with the mentorship of women like Cunningham—entering a new, more hopeful phase.


The growth that Reichl has experienced over the course of this memoir is also emphasized by the structural choice to bookend her narrative with Rob’s engagement party in Chapter 1 and Birdie’s birthday party in Chapter 16. Both parties are Miriam’s idea, and initially, planning for both parties proceeds with Miriam’s characteristic haphazard, irresponsible whimsy. Reichl is distressed on both occasions, thinking about how guests will react to the disorder and the bizarre—and often dangerous—choices Miriam has made. There is a sharp contrast, however, in the outcomes of Rob’s and Birdie’s parties. When Reichl is still a small child, she is unable to alter the course of Miriam’s disastrous plans, and many people end up with food poisoning after Rob’s party. By Chapter 16, however, Reichl is an adult. Instead of being overwhelmed by Miriam, she takes charge and ensures that Birdie’s party is a great success.


Another motif that recurs in Chapter 16 is the menu from Birdie’s wedding. This menu has great sentimental value to Reichl not only because it means so much to Birdie but because she spent days and days learning these dishes in the kitchen with Alice when she was a child. Recreating this menu at the party shows how Reichl has been influenced by Birdie and Alice’s ability to make her feel welcomed and loved when she most needed it as a child—now, as an adult, she is able to return the favor by making Birdie feel welcomed and loved at her 100th birthday party. This use of the wedding foods to communicate her own growth and reciprocate the love she has received from Alice and Birdie supports Reichl’s contentions about Food as a Form of Self-Expression.


As much as Reichl has grown and changed over the course of the narrative, however, she also wants to make clear that while she may have become an adult and a respected teacher and critic within the food world, her lessons are not done. She will always be a “student” of food, seeking to learn more and more about how it impacts people and reflects their worlds. Chapter 17, “Keep Tasting,” uses her experiences with Kermit Lynch to demonstrate this. With characteristic modesty, Reichl does not mention that Kermit is not just a random wine seller whom she happened to meet and who kindly took an interest in her education about wine. The Kermit who taught Reichl so much about wine is a writer and acclaimed wine critic—an important voice in the world of wine—who co-owns a highly regarded winery in France and has contributed in significant ways to best practices for the transportation and importing of European wines. For Kermit to take the time to educate Reichl indicates how much her determination to improve her craft must have impressed him.


Tender at the Bone is the story of how Ruth Reichl progressed over time from a child whose interest in food was largely out of self-preservation to an adult whose interest in food is all-encompassing. It focuses attention one-by-one on the people who contributed to Reichl’s food education and shaped her understanding of herself and all that food can mean. As it concludes, the memoir makes clear that Reichl’s story—and her education—are not done: She will continue to learn from each relationship that comes her way in order to develop her understanding of what her craft can contribute to the world around her.

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