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A 21-year-old American archivist arrives at a train station in San Drogo, Tuscany, Italy, for a job as an “adjutant” for a Baronessa, cataloguing the collection of her home, Villa Coco. He has taken a vow to avoid romantic relationships after a difficult college experience. He is picked up by a driver named Ghazel, whom the Baronessa calls Gazelle. At Villa Coco, the narrator meets a neighbor, Estelle, who explains that the Baronessa gives everyone nicknames and that he’ll “know she likes [him] when she uses [his] real name” (15). The narrator also meets Nimali, the Sri Lankan cook; Vinsanda, Nimali’s husband, who works at the villa as well; and the home’s owner, the Baronessa (Lisabetta/Coco). Due to some confusion from his telegram announcing his arrival time, they all call him Giovedì (Thursday). The Baronessa is initially disappointed that he is American and tries to send him away, but she relents when he informs her that he cannot leave by train due to a railway workers’ strike.
The narrator’s work is delayed when the villa’s pozzo (septic tank) overflows, a crisis that culminates in the arrival of the Baronessa’s aristocratic friend, Principessa Giuseppina Maria Augusta Raffaella of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (Princess Pippa), who is riding in the septic truck. After an awkward dinner, during which Pippa claims not to understand his American accent, the narrator has his first encounter with the villa’s “sworn enemy,” a faina (marten), outside his window.
The Baronessa’s old friend Oscar arrives soon after. Giovedì throws his hat on a daybed, and the Baronessa is alarmed due to a local superstition that a hat on a bed brings death. She consults a friend, who says that Giovedì must touch Ghazel’s palle (testicles) to break the curse. She is quite serious, but he is rescued when Oscar arrives and offers an alternative antidote by letting the narrator lightly touch his trousers instead. The Baronessa, Oscar, Estelle, and the narrator then make a rushed drive down the dangerous lower road to the thrift shop, La Formica, where Giovedì acquires a new European wardrobe.
After a brief visit from Furman Childress, an old American rival who knew the Baronessa during her youth on Capri, the Baronessa’s cousin Giacomo-Giacomo arrives. The Baronessa’s planned trip to Ferrara with Giovedì, Giacomo, and Oscar the following month is abruptly moved up when Oscar cannot attend. While the Baronessa conducts mysterious affairs there, she sends Giovedì and Giacomo on a side trip. Their car breaks down in the town of Comacchio, forcing them to spend the night together.
Giovedì breaks his vow and begins a romantic affair with Giacomo, who reveals he is in a mutual arrangement with his wife—who has a girlfriend of her own—and asks that their relationship remain a secret. When they return to the villa, the Baronessa reports that her business in Ferrara “did not go as [she] had hoped” (108). However, she finally announces that the villa’s rooms are ready for Giovedì to begin his cataloging work.
The overflowing septic tank, or pozzo, is the narrator’s first experience with the villa’s operational logic, which prizes chaotic improvisation over his own methodical nature. As a self-described archivist seeking the “bloodless precision of the archivist’s life” (7), the narrator is immediately confronted with a problem that is earthy, absurd, and resistant to orderly solutions. The crisis is not solved through expertise but through the Baronessa’s whimsical networking, which results in Princess Pippa arriving with the septic truck. This farcical resolution establishes the villa as a place that operates outside the narrator’s strict ideas of logic, introducing the theme of Embracing Whimsy Over Order. The pozzo itself becomes a recurring symbol of the unglamorous, uncontrollable reality that undergirds the villa’s bohemian elegance. For the narrator, whose scientist parents believe “life [is] an equation” (7), this foundational breakdown of a basic system shows a fundamental challenge to his worldview, forcing him to engage with the messy, unpredictable mechanics of a life he cannot catalog or control. This event introduces both the narrator and the reader to the Baronessa’s very different operational logic and the basic conflict that will define the narrator’s character arc.
The narrator’s professional training proves equally useless when he finally confronts the Baronessa’s collection, which defies any standard system of valuation. He arrives ready to catalog objects by date and provenance, but the Baronessa explains her organizing principle is “affinità,” a system based on the “obvious attraction to one another” (74). An artwork by a “terrible antisemite” is placed below a “Jewish Greek bridal shawl” (74), a juxtaposition whose value is entirely conceptual and personal to the Baronessa. This organizing principle foregrounds The Subjective Value of Objects, introducing a space in which an item’s worth is determined by memory, humor, and whim rather than market price or historical importance. The narrator’s American perspective, rooted in the idea of measurable worth, cannot accommodate a world where a fragment of a wall is “worthless” and an unidentified object is “priceless.” This clash is informed by Villa Coco’s grounding in the real-world setting at the Santa Maddalena Foundation, itself a highly personal collection reflecting the life of its founder, not a curated museum. The narrator’s inability to apply his formal knowledge emphasizes his initial failure to grasp that the villa’s value system is entirely self-contained and idiosyncratic, establishing the novel’s interest in the tension between value and worth.
The cultural gap between the narrator and the villa’s European inhabitants is frequently expressed through superstitions and communication failures that become so frequent as to establish one of the novel’s motifs. When the narrator places a hat on a daybed, the Baronessa’s terror is absolute, and the prescribed remedy—touching a nearby man’s testicles—is presented as an unassailable fact. The narrator’s rational objections are irrelevant; he must either conform to this local logic or be expelled. Similarly, Princess Pippa’s declaration that his “American dialect … Is. Beyond. Me” transforms him from a speaker of a global language into a purveyor of incomprehensible noise (31). These comic episodes, hallmarks of Andrew Sean Greer’s fiction, are not misunderstandings; they are assertions of cultural power. They invert the typical perspective of the American abroad, framing his worldview as the provincial one. In the world of Villa Coco, logic is subjective, language is contingent, and survival depends on adapting to a system of beliefs that operate entirely outside the narrator’s experience.
Having sworn to avoid the “pandemonium” of romance, the narrator’s initial approach to life at the villa is a dispassionate choice meant to ensure order. He intends to “cuff [himself] instead to intellectual pursuits” (7), trading emotional entanglement for professional focus. This vow is tested and ultimately broken during the unplanned trip to Comacchio with Giacomo. The car breakdown and forced overnight stay create an intimate space outside the villa’s normal social structures, allowing for a connection that defies the narrator’s careful planning. Giacomo, who lives in a marriage of convenience, also embodies the consequences of pragmatic, dispassionate arrangements. Their affair shows a mutual, if temporary, rebellion against these self-imposed restrictions. The narrator’s deliberate act of throwing his hat on the bed—a direct challenge to the villa’s superstitions—symbolizes his willingness to risk chaos for the sake of connection, explicitly rejecting The Cost of Dispassionate Choices and signaling a significant turn in his personal development.
The narrative structure of Part I mirrors the narrator’s internal journey from rigid order to an acceptance of chaos through a series of escalating, absurd challenges. The story begins with a clear mission—cataloging a collection—that provides a linear, professional framework. However, this goal is immediately subverted by a succession of unpredictable events: the pozzo, the marten, the hat superstition, and the impromptu trip with Giacomo. Each incident dismantles the narrator’s preconceived notions and professional identity. The trip to La Formica, a thrift shop, physically transforms him as he sheds his American clothes for a European wardrobe, an external sign of his internal shift. His initial vow to remain detached is an attempt to exert control over his life, but by the end of Part I, he has been forced by circumstances—and has chosen, with Giacomo—to relinquish that control. The Baronessa’s final announcement that the rooms are now “ready” for cataloging arrives only after the narrator himself has been fundamentally reordered, suggesting that she saw that his personal transformation was the necessary prerequisite for the professional task.



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