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Content Warning: This section of the guide includes discussion of racism, emotional abuse, and bullying.
As the protagonist and narrator of Taiwan Travelogue, Aoyama Chizuko’s perspective is the primary lens through which the novel examines the colonial experience. She is a dynamic and round character whose journey from well-intentioned ignorance to painful self-awareness forms the core of the narrative. Aoyama arrives in Taiwan with a romanticized and exoticized view of the island, initially perceiving a bustling market as a fantastical performance akin to “Tenkatsu’s Magic Troupe” (3), a popular stage magician of the time. This perspective, which she believes is an appreciative embrace of a foreign culture, is actually a form of paternalism. She sees herself as a writer on a mission to document the “real” Taiwan before it is changed by the Japanese Empire, yet her gaze is inescapably that of a colonizer, filtering her experiences through a lens of novelty and personal fulfillment. Her desire to “protect” her interpreter, Chi-chan, from perceived slights and hardships is a manifestation of this misguided goodwill, as she imposes her own values and solutions without understanding the systemic nature of the problems or Chi-chan’s own methods of navigating them. This characterization is central to the novel’s critique of The Paternalism of the Colonizer’s Gaze.
Aoyama’s most prominent trait is her “monster’s appetite” (43), which functions as a key narrative device. Her relentless quest for authentic Taiwanese food propels the plot, leading her on journeys across the island. These journeys serve as the backdrop for most of her interactions with Chi-chan. Food, in the novel, becomes a powerful motif representing cultural connection, division, and consumption. For Aoyama, eating is initially a way to consume the culture, a superficial engagement that prioritizes personal pleasure over deep understanding. She craves street food and local delicacies as a way to access an “authentic” experience, failing to see that her very presence and the power she holds as a Mainlander author alter the nature of that experience. Her relationship with Chi-chan is largely defined by these culinary pursuits, with Chi-chan acting as the masterful provider who procures and prepares dishes, subtly managing Aoyama’s whims while navigating the complex power dynamics inherent in their roles.
Her development hinges on her slow, often resisted, realization of her moral “blind spot” (175). While she is quick to anger whenever she witnesses overt prejudice against Chi-chan as an Islander, she consistently fails to grasp the pervasive and subtle inequities of the colonial system. The relationship’s turning point occurs during arguments where Chi-chan attempts to establish professional boundaries, which Aoyama misinterprets as personal rejection. It is not until a blunt confrontation with the government official Mishima that she is forced to confront her own behavior. Mishima directly accuses her of “intellectual arrogance” and of judging the island based on her “arbitrary preferences” (245), revealing that her kindness is a form of self-righteousness. This revelation shatters her perception of her friendship with Chi-chan and forces her to reassess her subtle exploitation of Chi-chan’s generosity. Aoyama’s final, solitary walk to Chi-chan’s neighborhood is a pilgrimage of atonement, marking a profound shift in her consciousness as she finally begins to understand the vast distance that power has created between them.
Ōng Tshian-hòh, whom Aoyama affectionately calls Chi-chan, is the deuteragonist of the novel and a complex foil to Aoyama’s naivete. She is a round character whose depth is gradually revealed, challenging both Aoyama’s and the reader’s initial perceptions. Her most defining feature is her calculated performance of politeness and accommodation, a self-protective strategy Aoyama repeatedly links to Chi-chan’s expression, which she refers to as a “Noh mask” (44). This mask is an essential tool for navigating her precarious position as an Islander woman serving a Mainlander of high status. It allows her to manage Aoyama’s often demanding requests and volatile emotions while concealing her own thoughts and feelings. Her inscrutable smile and impeccable competence are forms of emotional armor, shielding her from the vulnerabilities inherent in their unequal relationship. This constant performance highlights The Fragility of Friendship Across Power Divides, as it underscores the impossibility of true, reciprocal intimacy when one person must constantly be on guard.
Beneath the mask, Chi-chan is exceptionally intelligent, resourceful, and deeply knowledgeable about Taiwanese culture, history, and languages. Her erudition, which Aoyama initially finds surprising, points to a rich inner life and a complex past that Aoyama’s colonial gaze cannot fully comprehend. Chi-chan’s resistance to Aoyama’s paternalism is subtle but persistent. She asserts her boundaries through quiet, strategic actions, rather than through direct confrontation. For instance, she initially refuses to dine at the same table as Aoyama, citing their unequal dynamic. She only acquiesces after Aoyama reframes their relationship to call themselves equals. She gently deflects Aoyama’s more intrusive questions with practiced ease and guides her travels in a way that satisfies Aoyama’s curiosity without allowing herself to be fully exploited. This elevates her from being a passive subject of colonial dynamics into an active agent who skillfully manages her circumstances to maintain her dignity and autonomy.
Chi-chan’s backstory as the daughter of a concubine, educated by her mother’s worldly friends at a café, reveals the source of her sophisticated survival skills. She intimately understands social hierarchies and navigates them with a pragmatism born out of necessity. Her decision to resign as Aoyama’s interpreter is the culmination of her struggle for selfhood. It is a powerful act of agency, a refusal to continue playing a role in a friendship that, despite Aoyama’s genuine affection, is built on a foundation of misunderstanding and inequality. Her final explanation to Aoyama is devastatingly precise: “The truth is that gentle Aoyama-san never once asked me: Do you want this protection?” (229). With this, she articulates the novel’s central theme, rejecting a “friendship” in which she is seen as an object of pity and protection. By severing the tie, she reclaims her identity and asserts the impossibility of true connection across an unacknowledged power divide.
Mishima Aizō is a minor but crucial character who serves as a foil to Chi-chan and a catalyst for Aoyama’s self-realization. As a wansheng, a Japanese person born in Taiwan, he occupies an ambiguous space within the colonial hierarchy. He first appears as a rigid, unhelpful bureaucrat from Taichū City Hall, a stark contrast to Chi-chan’s accommodating and resourceful nature. His adherence to protocol and his initial refusal to indulge Aoyama’s requests for local food stem from a pragmatic desire to maintain professional boundaries and avoid the potential troubles that Aoyama’s whims might create. His demeanor reflects a keen, if unstated, awareness of the risks involved in blurring the lines between colonizer and colonized.
While his role is limited, it is pivotal. Toward the end of the novel, after Chi-chan’s departure, Mishima becomes the voice of unfiltered truth. Freed from the need for politeness that governs Chi-chan’s interactions, he directly confronts Aoyama about her behavior. He accuses her of “intellectual arrogance” (245) and of judging the island based on her subjective whims, rather than a genuine understanding of the Islanders’ perspectives. His statement that “There is nothing in the world more difficult to refuse than self-righteous goodwill” (247) perfectly encapsulates the novel’s critique of benevolent colonialism. In this moment, Mishima moves beyond being a simple bureaucrat to become the character who finally forces Aoyama to face the uncomfortable truth about her own perspective.
Madame Takada Sumako is a minor character whose primary function is to facilitate the novel’s plot. As the representative of the Nisshinkai women’s group and a Mainlander of high social standing, she embodies the generous and superficially benevolent face of the Japanese colonial project. She is genuinely kind to Aoyama, hosting her upon her arrival and providing her with the cottage on the Yana River free of charge. Most importantly, it is Madame Takada who hires Chi-chan as Aoyama’s interpreter, thus setting the stage for the central relationship of the novel.
Despite her warmth and hospitality, Madame Takada is a static character who remains comfortably situated within the colonial power structure, never questioning its inherent inequalities. Her kindness is that of a patron to a guest, operating within a system that she takes for granted. She views Aoyama’s frustrations with Mishima as a simple personality clash and sees Chi-chan’s competence as a convenient asset, remaining oblivious to the deeper tensions and emotional labor involved in their interactions. Her character highlights how even the most well-meaning members of the colonizing class are complicit in upholding a system of oppression, their generosity a function of a privilege they do not examine.



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